Barbarian Days by William Finnegan
Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life is William Finnegan’s story about growing up obsessed with surfing. It’s not just about catching waves—it’s about a whole way of life that’s demanding, addictive, and sometimes dangerous. Finnegan started young, learning to surf in California and Hawaii, and kept chasing waves into adulthood, traveling through places like Fiji, Australia, Indonesia, and Africa. Along the way, he mixes adventure with self-reflection, talking about friendships formed in the water, the culture around surfing, and how it all fit with the times—especially during the social changes of the 1960s and '70s. The book isn’t just about the thrill of surfing; Finnegan dives into the technical side of waves and the patience it takes to master them. He’s honest about his youthful recklessness—like taking LSD before surfing a massive wave in Maui—and the risks that came with his travels, from malaria scares to navigating shady markets. Still, surfing pulls him along, even when he’s jugg...
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Reviewed on 2/25/2025
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'Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life' is a memoir by William Finnegan that chronicles his lifelong obsession with surfing. The book explores not only the thrill of catching waves but also the culture surrounding surfing, the friendships formed in the water, and the personal reflections that come with a life dedicated to this demanding and sometimes dangerous sport. Finnegan shares his experiences from California and Hawaii to Fiji, Australia, Indonesia, and Africa, blending adventure with introspection.
'Barbarian Days' delves into several themes, including the passion and addiction associated with surfing, the risks involved in pursuing this lifestyle, and the impact of social changes during the 1960s and '70s. Finnegan reflects on his youthful recklessness, the technical aspects of surfing, and the balance between his career as a war reporter and his love for the ocean.
William Finnegan's writing in 'Barbarian Days' is characterized by vivid descriptions and a reflective tone. He captures both the beauty and the challenges of surfing, making readers feel as if they are experiencing the adventures alongside him. His narrative combines storytelling with insightful observations about life, friendship, and the allure of the ocean.
While there are no specific pros and cons listed for 'Barbarian Days', readers often appreciate its engaging storytelling and deep exploration of surfing culture. Some may find the technical aspects of surfing and the author's personal reflections to be less appealing if they are not interested in the sport. Overall, it is celebrated for its literary quality and the way it captures the essence of a life spent chasing waves.